I have been working on analysing the diaries of Edward Phelips V of Montacute House, Somerset (1725-1797). This is one of the blog posts which attempts to contextualise entries to examine the culture of the 18th C English country gentry. This post relates to January to April 1779 when the Phelips family visit London and Edward Phelips makes frequent excursions to the coffeehouse.
My blog photo is that of Twinings in The Strand, the door case dating from circa 1717. Twinings was originally a coffeehouse but moved towards also specialising in tea. The coffeehouses of the 18th C have long gone. This door case is an echo of that lost culture.
When visiting London, the Phelips family ensured no opportunity was missed to visit people, have dinner with others, and take advantage of what London offered in terms of plays, pleasure gardens, and even just ‘taking the air’. Some of these activities were frequented by both the ladies and gentlemen. However, the coffeehouse was one such activity that Edward Phelips often did on his own and occasionally with another gentlemen.
Edward Phelips arrived in London for a 13-week stay on Saturday, 24th January 1779 and left town on Sunday, 18th of April 1779. His wife, sister, son Charles and daughter Rhoda accompanied him on the trip. William, his son, met them in London. They stayed in a house on Parliament Street, owned by a Mr Reed.
Edward wrote in his autobiography: ‘23rd of January 1779 I went to London & lodged in the same house as the preceding year‘.[i] In 1778 he wrote ‘The 31st of January, I & family set out for London. Arrived there February 1st. Lodged at Mr Reeds in Parliament Street. Had the whole house except the back parlour.’[ii]
Edward represented Somerset as MP from 1774 to 1780. His business in London was that of attending Parliament. His social life was to keep networking and enjoy what London life can offer.
In January to April 1779, Edward Phelips V is 53 years of age. On the 12th of April 1779 he turns 54 whilst still staying in London, but this is not noted in his diary. He goes out to the coffeehouse that evening and the ladies go to Ranelagh Pleasure Gardens.
THE COFFEE HOUSE
Part of London life for the 18th C gentleman was to attend the coffeehouse. From Tuesday the 26th of January 1779 to Wednesday, 14th of April 1779, Edward attends the coffeehouse forty-six times, around three to four times a week.
The social, economic and political landscape of England in the latter part of the 18th C is difficult to encapsulate. The coffee house was a place where men could meet to do business, discuss politics, catch up on news, and find out about such things as discoveries and developments in travel, science and technology. The coffeehouse could serve several diverse functions including auctions, bookselling, and exhibitions. They were the main society of men, at a time when gendered spaces were curated. However, different male classes frequented them.
The first coffeehouse in England was opened at the Angel in Oxford in 1650 by a Jewish entrepreneur named Jacob.[iii] In 1652 the first coffeehouse was established in London. This was set up by Pasqua Rosée, a Greek servant to a Levant Company merchant, Daniel Edwards.[iv]
Whilst there was probably a lot to talk about in this period of the Commonwealth (1649-1660), it would be after the Restoration of 1660 that the ‘news culture’ developed. However, it took many years for the new London coffeehouses to become part of the social landscape frequented by the likes of Samuel Pepys and Alexander Pope, providing a place of social networking and intellectual conversation.[v]
The coffeehouse was the preserve of men. No lady, who valued her respectable reputation would enter. Although, I wonder at Edward Phelips V’s mother, who had South Sea stock. Did she have to enter a coffeehouse to attend to business? There are instances of a few women who exercised business in such investments at coffeehouses.[vi] Elizabeth Phelips bought stock in October and November 1720,[vii] a few months after the overinflated prices of the ‘South Sea Bubble’ had burst.
Coffee drinking was not part of the country house culture. It was tea drinking that took pride of place. Although often that could just be the pursuit of the ladies. One mention of coffee in Edward Phelips’s diaries is on Wednesday, the 15th of July 1778. Edward Phelips had attended the Bridgwater Sessions. He slept overnight at Mr Pools. On Thursday, 16th July 1778 Edward wrote: ‘Breakfasted at nine – went to court & stayed till two. Dined and drank coffee. Set out at 6 & arrived home at 10’.[viii]
There is also a mention of chocolate. On Sunday, 15th February 1784, Edward wrote: ‘Morn Doctor Johnson called & drank Chocolate’.[ix] I think this is highly unlikely the Doctor Samuel Johnson as he was unwell in 1784, the last year of his life. More likely a local.
LONDON VISIT JANUARY TO APRIL 1779: Coffeehouse Visits
There were around 2,000 coffeehouses in London in the 18th C, which offered not just coffee, but hot chocolate and alcoholic beverages such as rum, brandy and arrack (a drink distilled from fermented coconut sugar or sugarcane).[x]
Below are extracts from Edward Phelips’s 1779 diary noting his visits to the coffeehouse. He provides hardly any information on what occurs on his visits to the coffeehouse. He notes that at one time (Tuesday, 2nd February 1779) he meets Mr Wright, his father-in-law. This being the first time he saw him there. On Saturday the 20th of March he encountered his son William at the coffeehouse. William had gone after attending a play. A few of the entries may infer he went with other men, such as Sir W Clerke. But this is not certain and generally the tone indicates he often went alone. The ladies attended other entertainments such as Ranelegh Pleasure Gardens at Chelsea, the Pantheon, taking tea, and a few ‘routs’ (a fashionable evening party or assembly).
WHICH COFFEEHOUSE DID EDWARD PHELIPS ATTEND?
The only coffee house Edward Phelips mentions is the Salopian Coffeehouse. In Roach’s London pocket pilot of 1796 this is described as:
The Salopian Coffee-house, Charing-cross, is what may be termed, rather snug than elegant – it is much used by military heroes, where, under the brokerage of little WHITING, they fell, exchange, and barter their commissions, as conveniency may dictate.[xi]
It is possible that Le Coq’s coffeehouse was nearer to Westminster and Edward Phelips’s lodgings in Parliament Street and was the one he often frequented.
In Roach’s London pocket pilot of 1796, Le Coq’s is described as:
Le Coq’s, the Parliament Street Coffee-house is in a most eligible situation for members of parliament, and gentlemen who attend upon parliament business; and the several coffee-houses about Westminster hall, are principally occupied by the gentlemen of long robe, when on duty.[xii]
Note that ‘gentlemen of the long robe’ are those in the legal or judicial profession.
COFFEEHOUSE TIME
The daily routine for the family to come together, as well as company, was structured around dinner. In London there was some flexibility (i.e. the timings were more rigid when back home in the country). Dinner appears to be anytime from 4pm to 6pm, dependent on what was occurring on the day. Supper could occur at 9pm, 10pm, or 11pm, and on at least one occasion 12am. The coffeehouse visits appear to be around 8pm and 9pm. Often Edward Phelips returned home for supper at 10pm.
Through January, February, and March the light must have been a challenge for those preparing and serving dinner and supper. At the coffeehouse tallow candles would adorn the tables for light. Domestic oil lamps didn’t really get started until the late-18thC. An early adopter was John Griffin who bought his first Argand lamp in 1785 for his house at Audley End in Essex.[xiii]
At times Edward Phelips went directly from an evening parliament session to the coffeehouse. Sometimes he went after a walk in the park or to see the illuminations at Pall Mall (a multitude of coloured glass oil lamps being the likely illuminations as per the pleasure gardens of the 18th C). Mostly he went out directly to the coffeehouse.
1779 Diary 26th of January to 14th of April transcriptions where the coffeehouse is mentioned:[xiv]
| 1 | Tuesday, 26th January 1779 | ‘home to dinner at five Trevannian called – Coffee house – home to supper’ |
| 2 | Thursday, 28th January 1779 | ‘Even Coffee House’ |
| 3 | Friday, 29th January 1779 | ‘Even Coffee House. Ned, sister & Rhoda went to the Play. I staid with wife who was ill.’
(Note: spelling of stayed is ‘staid’ in Edward Phelips’s writings) |
| 4 | Saturday, 30th January, 1779 | ‘Even Coffee house. Home to supper.’ |
| 5 | Tuesday, 2nd February, 1779 | ‘Even Coffee house – the first time I saw Mr Wright there.’
(Note: Mr Wright is his wife’s father) |
| 6 | Thursday, 4th February, 1779 | ‘Coffee house. Home at 10’ |
| 7 | Sunday, 7th February, 1779 | ‘Even Coffee House’ |
| 8 | Monday, 8th February, 1779 | ‘Even Coffee House. Ned, my sister & Rhoda went to the Pantheon’ |
| 9 | Wednesday, 10th February, 1779 | ‘Even coffee house & home to supper’ |
| 10 | Thursday, 11th February, 1779 | ‘Even coffee house & home to supper’ |
| 11 | Friday, 12th February, 1779 | Walked to Pall Mall to see the illuminations & c: Coffee house – at 10 home to supper
(Note: The illuminations in parks and pleasure gardens were numerous coloured-glass oil lamps) |
| 12 | Saturday, 13th February, 1779 | ‘Dined our own family. Walked to Pall Mall. Back to the coffee house. Home to supper’ |
| 13 | Monday, 15th February, 1779 | ‘Dinner at 6. Returned to the House. Up at 8 to the coffee house’
(The House being Parliament) |
| 14 | Tuesday, 16th February, 1779 | ‘Even coffee house – home at 10 to supper’ |
| 15 | Wednesday, 17th February, 1779 | ‘At 9 coffee house. Home at 10 to supper’ |
| 16 | Thursday, 18th February, 1779 | ‘Even coffee house – Ladies went to Mrs Tryan’s Rout’ |
| 17 | Saturday, 20th February, 1779 | ‘Even coffee house’ |
| 18 | Sunday, 21st February, 1779 | ‘Even coffee house. Home to supper’ |
| 19 | Monday, 22nd February, 1779 | ‘Home to dinner at 4 – returned & staid till 8. Came home found Sir W Clerke who supped with us – coffee house. Home to supper at 10’ |
| 20 | Tuesday, 23rd February, 1779 | ‘Mr Dickenson came back with me to tea. Coffee House – home to supper – Sir W Clerke.’ |
| 21 | Friday, 26th February, 1779 | ‘To dinner at 4. Sir W Clerke – drank tea at Dingleys, Sir W Clerke, Old Dingley & Mr Shephers. Coffee house & home at ten to supper’ |
| 22 | Saturday, 27th February, 1779 | ‘Wrote in the afternoon & coffee house. Home at ten to supper’ |
| 23 | Monday, 1st March, 1779 | ‘Walked round Park & c: then to the House. Came home to dinner. At six returned & staid till 9. Coffee house & home to supper at ten. |
| 24 | Thursday, 4th March, 1779 | ‘House of Lords & home to dinner. Back to the House of Lords. Home to tea. Miss Strutt, Miss Savory & Sir W Clerke. Coffee house – at supper our own family’ |
| 25 | Friday, 5th March, 1779 | ‘Sir W Clerke came at 8 – I went to the coffee house’ |
| 26 | Saturday, 6th March, 1779 | ‘Walked in the Park & c: Dinner our own family – coffee house. Home to supper’ |
| 27 | Tuesday, 9th March, 1779 | ‘Wife visiting William & I coffee house – all home to supper.’
(Note: William is their son) |
| 28 | Thursday, 11th March 1779 | ‘Walked in Park. To the House – home to dinner at 4. Returned immediately to the house & staid till 8. Found wife only at home. Coffee house & home at 10 to supper’ |
| 29 | Saturday, 13th March, 1779 | ‘Ladies went in the even to Lord Poulett’s’ – William & Master Horner to the Play – I to the coffee house – all met at home to supper’ |
| 30 | Wednesday, 17th March, 1779 | ‘I came home at 8. Coffee house & home to supper’. |
| 31 | Thursday, 18th March, 1779 | ‘Returned to Dinner. Went to the House again. Returned at 8. Went to the Coffee house’ |
| 32 | Friday, 19th March, 1779 | ‘Returned to the House. Staid till 8 – Coffee house. Home to supper’ |
| 33 | Saturday, 20th March, 1779 | ‘Dinner T Horner – who went with the ladies to the opera & Wm to the play – I to the Coffee house – Wm there too after the play’
(Note: Wm = William, his son) |
| 34 | Tuesday, 23rd March, 1779 | ‘Dinner at 5 – S Cleeve called. Coffee house & c:’ |
| 35 | Wednesday, 24th March, 1779 | ‘I walked with Lord Digby – to the House, home to dinner & then to the House of Lords & staid till 10. Coffee house & c:’ |
| 36 | Thursday, 25th March, 1779 | ‘Dinner & returned to the House of Lords at 9. To the Coffee house – Ladies drank Tea at Mrs Hoare’s. William to the Play’ |
| 37 | Tuesday, 30th March, 1779 | ‘Coffee house – home at 10’ |
| 38 | Wednesday, 31st March, 1779 | ‘Coffee house. Home to Supper at 10’ |
| 39 | Thursday, 1st April, 1779 | ‘Then to the Salopian Coffee House & home at 10 to Supper – Ladies to Lord Poulett’s’ |
| 40 | Friday, 2nd April, 1779 | ‘After Tea took a long walk then the Coffee house & home to Supper at 10’ |
| 41 | Saturday, 3rd April, 1779 | ‘Even Coffee house. Home at ten to supper.’ |
| 42 | Thursday, 8th April, 1779 | ‘Coffee house & home at 10 to supper – bed at 11.’ |
| 43 | Friday, 9th April, 1779 | ‘Took a long walk & at 10 to the Coffee house. Home at 11 to supper. Ladies went to Ranelagh’ |
| 44 | Monday, 12th April, 1779 | ‘Ladies & all but Mr Coward & self went to Ranelagh. I to the Coffee house. The ladies home before 12.’ |
| 45 | Tuesday, 13th April, 1779 | ‘then to the Coffee House. Home at 11. Ladies to Mrs Macbride’s Rout’ |
| 46 | Wednesday, 14th April, 1779 | ‘Ladies to Ranelagh. I to the Coffee house. All home at 12 to supper & c:’ |
SIR W CLERKE
It maybe that the Sir W Clerke mentioned is Sir William Clerke, 8th Baronet (1751-1818), a Church of England clergyman who succeeded to the baronetcy on the death of his older brother, Francis in 1778. He became rector of Bury in Lancashire on 6 February 1778. He cared about the physical conditions of his parishioners. He vaccinated children of the local poor and wrote a pamphlet advocating quarantine, improved cleanliness, and extensive lime whitewashing to help contain infectious diseases such as smallpox. He married in 1792 and had three sons and one daughter. He was energetic in agricultural pursuits and enterprises, getting directly involved himself. Unfortunately, he was not apt at business and died on the 10th of April 1818 in the Fleet prison, where he was incarcerated for debt.[xv]
It is not evident as to how Edward Phelips V would have known this Sir William. However, Sir William would have been 27 at the beginning of 1779. Edward VI, Edward’s son would have been 26 in 1779. They both attended Christ Church, Oxford. Perhaps that is the connection.
SUMMARY
The coffeehouse was very much part of the urban culture of London for male society. Edward Phelips was often visiting on his own. Being of a very social nature he would have been likely networking. It is frustrating that he leaves us outside of the coffeehouse with little to go on of this male domain.
DECLINE OF THE COFFEEHOUSE
The coffeehouse culture began to decline towards the end of the 18th C as fashions changed and the functions the coffeehouses served spilt into more exclusive environments.
In 1706, a certain Thomas Twining, purchased ‘Tom’s Coffee House’, which stood on the Strand, on the border between Westminster and the City. He differentiated from the other coffeehouses in London by offering fine quality tea at Tom’s Coffee House. Ladies drank tea in their drawing rooms and would send in their footmen to buy the tea as they waited outside in their carriages.[xvi]
Twinings in The Strand
Thomas Twining expanded, and created a new premises around 1717, named The Golden Lyon Tea and Coffee House. He opened an adjacent shop selling blended teas which was acceptable for ladies to enter. In the photograph the entrance doorcase is still in evidence. The golden lion takes pride of place in the pediment. The two Chinese figures represent the origins of tea in China.[xvii]
By 1837 Queen Victoria awarded Twinings an official Royal Warrant for tea and it is still going strong.[xviii] It would take until the latter part of the 20th century for coffee and specialist cafes to have a significant revival, although they a far cry from the 18th C coffeehouses.
NOTES
[i] S.R.O., ‘Autobiography of Edward Phelips (1725-97), c1794’, Phelips Manuscripts, Personal affairs, DD/PH/224/114.
[ii] S.R.O., ‘Autobiography of Edward Phelips (1725-97), c1794’, DD/PH/224/114.
[iii] Brian Cowan, The Social Life of Coffee: The Emergence of the British Coffeehouse, (New Haven & London: Yale University Press, 2005), p. 90.
[iv] Cowan, p. 94.
[v] Cowan, pp. 94-95.
[vi] Cowan, p. 248.
[vii] S.R.O., ‘Personal affairs. 1588-1791’, Phelips Manuscripts, DD/PH/229.
[viii] S.R.O., ‘Edward Phelips. 1747-1781’, Phelips Manuscripts, DD/PH/183.
[ix] S.R.O., ‘Diary of Edward Phelips of Montacute, MP, 1784’, A/EOH/1.
[x] ‘The History of Tea and Twinings’, Twinings, < https://twinings.co.uk/blogs/news/history-of-twinings > [accessed 13 September 2024].
[xi] John Roach, Roach’s London Pocket Pilot, (J. Roach, 1796), Internet Archive, < https://archive.org/details/bim_eighteenth-century_roachs-london-pocket-pi_1796/page/48/mode/2up?q=salopian> [accessed 13 September 2024], p. 49.
[xii] Roach, p. 49.
[xiii] ‘The Illuminating History of Lighting’, Blog Posts, English Heritage, 2017 < https://www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/inspire-me/blog/blog-posts/history-of-lighting/ > [accessed 13 September 2024].
[xiv] S.R.O., ‘Diary of Edward Phelips of Monatcute House. 1 Jan 1770-31 Dec 1779’’, Stevens Cox Collection, A/CTP/3/3/1.
[xv] Mark Smith, ‘Clerke, Sir William Henry, eight baronet (1751-1818)’, Oxford Dictionary of National Biography, Oxford University Press, 2004: online edn, Sept 2004, < https://doi.org/10.1093/ref:odnb/5633> [accessed 13 September 2024].
[xvi] ‘The History of Tea and Twinings’, Twinings.
[xvii] ‘The History of Tea and Twinings’, Twinings.
[xviii] ‘The History of Tea and Twinings’, Twinings.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
Cowan, Brian, The Social Life of Coffee: The Emergence of the British Coffeehouse, (New Haven & London: Yale University Press, 2005)